NM Chile Heroes

1894–1991

Fabiola Cabeza de Baca

A published author introducing New Mexico cuisine to the nation.

Fabiola Cabeza de Baca broke barriers as a published author, introducing New Mexico cuisine to the nation and chronicling the state’s heritage in beloved books, stories and recipes. 

Working as an New Mexico State University Extension agent and author, she was an advocate for what makes our region special. Her books received national attention, and Americans became aware of the unique cultures and foods of New Mexico, especially chile. 

Historic Cookery, published in 1931, shared traditional recipes from New Mexico – one of the first  cookbooks that included recipes for chile sauce!

The Good Life: New Mexico Traditions and Foods (1949), put these recipes in the context of region, family and community, telling the story of a fictional family, the Turrietas.

We Fed Them Cactus (1954) describes Fabiola’s growing up on a ranch. It includes tales from El Cuate, the camp cook. 

1872–1948

Fabián García

A brilliant plant breeder acclaimed as the father of America’s chile industry.

Fabian Garcia was a brilliant plant breeder acclaimed as the father of America’s chile industry. García, working at New Mexico State University, developed new varieties of chile peppers, including green chiles that were mild enough to be enjoyed by people unused to spicy foods.

After working with many chile crosses, Garcia chose the New Mexico #9, a long, green chile that became the basis of New Mexico’s commercial chile industry.

García was also devoted to helping students. Although he and his wife Julieta (née Amador) had no living children, he worked tirelessly to help students earn college degrees, often by helping them pay for tuition and living expenses, and helping them find housing. García willed part of his estate to support NMSU’s construction of a dormitory for those in need, now called García Center. “I want to help poor boys, because I know their hardships,” he explained.

García often talked about his belief that education is a powerful pathway to help students develop their highest and most noble nature, to become “not only keen, sagacious and shrewd but broadminded, evenly and sympathetically balanced, tolerant, sweet and charitable.”

1923–1988

Roy Nakayama

A chile breeder resulting in the cultivars ‘NuMex R Naky’, ‘NuMex 6-4’, ‘Española Improved’, and ‘NuMex Big Jim’.

Building on the accomplishments of Fabián García, Dr. Nakayama’s chile breeding contributions resulted in the cultivars ‘NuMex R Naky’, ‘NuMex 6-4’, ‘Española Improved’, and ‘NuMex Big Jim’.

After the release of the Big Jim in 1975, U.S. chile consumption doubled over the next decade. It is estimated that Dr. Nakayama’s research and the chile varieties he developed continue to generate more than $10 million of income per year in New Mexico.

Roy served in WWII, was captured during the Battle of the Bulge, and spent seven months in a German prison. After returning to the U.S., he faced anti-Japanese sentiment and was initially denied re-admission to college. With support from his professors, he earned a bachelor’s degree in botany in 1948, followed by a master’s and PhD in Iowa. He taught and researched agriculture and horticulture at New Mexico State University for thirty years before retiring in the mid-1980s.

From his family’s farm experience, Roy recognized the needs of agricultural producers. He collaborated with farmers, like James A. Lytle, to develop the Big Jim chile, which is now the basis for most green chiles used in New Mexico cuisine and holds the world record for the longest chile.